The Lake St.Clair Network: Rebuilding the Helm and Bleeding a Hynautic hydraulic steering system - The Lake St.Clair Network

Jump to content

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Rebuilding the Helm and Bleeding a Hynautic hydraulic steering system How - to - Topic Hydraulic Hynautic inboard steering

#1 User is offline   kemper 

  • LSCN Fan
  • PipPipPipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 1,660
  • Joined: 26-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grosse Pointe Farms
  • Home Port: Pier Park, Grosse Pointe Farms
  • Boat Type:Carver 3207 M.Y. Aft Cabin

Posted 29 August 2011 - 12:24 PM

This past weekend do to a leak on the upper Helm I rebuilt my Hynautic brand hydraulic steering on a 86 carver 3207. I had the common H-50 model. The O-ring kit is available for order. #HS-05 at a cost of $32 and a day to ship. My neighbor who sells gasket indicated that these were standard O-ring they have in stock. He was able to get me two sets the same day at their Farmington location. Attached is the invoice with model #s if you want to save a couple bucks and get them locally. You do not need all of them if your helm is a 85' or newer. The instructions are straight forward but I did find the post below online that was of great use

1. Depressurize system
2. Remove the pump. On my boat, it was a bit of a reach but not bad.
3. I put the pump in a vise. just loosely to hold it upright, Put the base of the pump down and the shaft up.
4. Remove the 4 bolts holding the base to the cover
5. Note the position of the alignment marks on the bottom of the base. You want to make sure those marks are in the same position when you put it back together. (They are on opposite sides of the pump)
6. The cover is a bit hard to get off. I had a long handled screwdriver that I worked at all 4 bolt holes to get it up 1/2" or so. Then I used the shaft of the screwdriver and a wrench to evenly pry the cap off. Be careful when it comes off as some of the pump balls may fall out (do this on clear flat surface)
7. Put the pump pieces back together that may have come loose. It's pretty simple arrangement
8. Remove the white plastic piece that stayed in the cap, the quad seal and the old wiper. I just pried the old quad seal and it popped the white piece out.
9. If you look at the drawing, it states that part 21 supersedes part 3 and 8. Mine looks to have been rebuilt before as I had part 21, the quad seal (The plastic ring with the o-rug on the bottom)
10. The wiper ring is the one with the bevel on top. I did not use the other seal (Kind of a square shaped
O-ring if that makes sense. I think that matches part 3)
11. I reassembled the top part the following way.
a. Put the quad seal in first with the
O-ring facing the pump
b. Put the wiper seal in through the top opening (Where the shaft pokes through) the wiper was flexible and this was the only way I could get it to be even around the edge
c. Put the white plastic piece in place. It can only go in one way. Note the order of the washers in the drawing. There is a thin and thick washer
12. Remove the three
O-rings at the pump base and replace with the parts supplied. Apply even pressure on the rim of the cover.
13. Replace the cover, making sure the alignment marks are ok.
14. Replace the bolts. Tighten in cross pattern until all 4 are tight.
15. Reinstall pump, bleed system per instructions. (Note I tried a shortcut. I didn't disconnect the steering cylinder and mine bled fine. I can't reach it well)


Scott Gardner

Also attached is the O&M manual for the system. I purchased two quarts of hydraulic steering fluid from the local boat supply. I only ended up using one but kept the other with the extra O-ring kit and instruction so that If need I could fix one if I get stuck out on the lake.

A couple things I did learn:

The original fluid was red. This was not because it was transmission fluid but because back then it was red. They changed it because people complained that it would stain. Some people put transmission fluid in order to make the steering a little tighter. (Mistake) You can use transmission fluid if you need to get back to port but you need to bleed it out due to the trans fluid eating your gaskets.

It will take several times of spinning the wheel and bleeding the system to get the air out. Just follow the directions and eventually you will start to get movement of the ram. I did detach mine during this process. Also you will not get a hard over at the helm until you close the relief valves. This is done after you bleed the system.

I had a hard time getting the steering shaft to slid past the quad seal on one of the helms. A trick is to put the seal in some warm water and use Vaseline if needed.

All in all it took about 1/2hr to remove the two units. 2hrs to replace the seals. It would have only taking about an hour but I had the trouble with the one seal as mentioned above. About 4-6hrs to bleed the system. I took a few breaks and watch a little TV. If you have a couple of people it would go a lot quicker.

In conclusion. If you follow the directions this is not a bad project to take on. I am definitely glad I did this myself. The reason is before this I had a general knowledge of the system. Now if I encounter any difficulties especially while out of port I have the skill and knowledge on how to correctly rebuild and bleed the system. I hope the information is helpful and if you have any questions just let me know

Attached File(s)


This post has been edited by kemper: 29 August 2011 - 03:02 PM

0

#2 User is offline   kemper 

  • LSCN Fan
  • PipPipPipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 1,660
  • Joined: 26-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grosse Pointe Farms
  • Home Port: Pier Park, Grosse Pointe Farms
  • Boat Type:Carver 3207 M.Y. Aft Cabin

Posted 29 August 2011 - 12:34 PM

Looks like at 3.8 MB the O & M Mannual is to large to add :blink:
0

#3 User is offline   Spiderfarm 

  • New Recruit
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 1
  • Joined: 14-April 13
  • Home Port: Sandusky OH
  • Boat Type:Carver 32
  • Boat Name: SpiderFarm

Posted 14 April 2013 - 08:37 AM

I too have a leak on my upper Helm on an '87 Carver 3227. Googled hynautic and found your post, had to Join the network to download the PDFs. Had you considered putting the O&M manual in the "cloud" on Google Drive and then posting a link to it?. They have several levels of shares, anyone with a link can see /download/ but not modify. (Some marketing websites provide product datasheet downloads this way.)

I really appreciated your post The purge instructions on my reservoir don't have scaleable fonts, and I don't have good light that low in the bilge.

Question: Where was yours leaking from? Mine has evidence fluid came down face of the dash console - not from beneath. Then fluid followed bottom edge of dash till it found a low point from which to drop. I havent studied how the pump flange separates, or how the whole helm mounts.

Thanks again for your post!

0

#4 User is offline   kemper 

  • LSCN Fan
  • PipPipPipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 1,660
  • Joined: 26-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grosse Pointe Farms
  • Home Port: Pier Park, Grosse Pointe Farms
  • Boat Type:Carver 3207 M.Y. Aft Cabin

Posted 14 April 2013 - 09:25 AM

View PostSpiderfarm, on 14 April 2013 - 08:37 AM, said:

I too have a leak on my upper Helm on an '87 Carver 3227. Googled hynautic and found your post, had to Join the network to download the PDFs. Had you considered putting the O&M manual in the "cloud" on Google Drive and then posting a link to it?. They have several levels of shares, anyone with a link can see /download/ but not modify. (Some marketing websites provide product datasheet downloads this way.)

I really appreciated your post The purge instructions on my reservoir don't have scaleable fonts, and I don't have good light that low in the bilge.

Question: Where was yours leaking from? Mine has evidence fluid came down face of the dash console - not from beneath. Then fluid followed bottom edge of dash till it found a low point from which to drop. I havent studied how the pump flange separates, or how the whole helm mounts.

Thanks again for your post!


Mine leaked in the same area. It was the wiper seal around the shaft. To take off remove cap off the steering wheel and unscrew the bolt. My steering wheel came right off. You will see 4 reg head screens around the trim ring. Those remove it from the dash. Unhook the hoses and remove those 4 screws. Definitely do the lower station if you have one in that the time consuming part is bleeding the system.
0

Share this topic:


Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

2 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users


The Lake St. Clair Network is a local social network for Lake St.Clair and surrounding waterways such as Detroit River, Clinton River, Lake Erie, Lake Huron and Lake Michigan.
We are the #1 source for Lake St.Clair Fishing Reports, Ice Fishing, Lake St. Clair News, Lake St.Clair Boating, Michigan Fishing and Michigan Hunting.