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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Boat Owners: My friend has a 2001; 20 ft Champion Bass boat and his back transducers came unglued from the inside fiberglass bottom of the boat. Does anyone out there know the process or procedure that is required to reseat these transducers? Things like: Fiberglass preparation, what type of epoxy to use and how to seat them properly. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for all your help.
 

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Thanks Mini. I am just getting to that on my boat. The guy who owned her before me mounted the Lowrance depth finder transducer just above the keel, next to the seacock and on an angle. It would read 4.5' when there was actually 3' and by that time, I was on the bottom with a 32" draw.
 

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I would put it back on the same spot that it came off of. That way you will know that it is at a good location, angle, etc. Make sure that you apply plenty of adhesive as you don't want an air pocket trapped.

A quick fix could also be to swap the indash flasher transducer cable for the graph. If they are both the same manufacture, more than likely the transducers are the same. 1240a's and X?? use the same units.

Before just resetting the current transducer make sure that it still works. If it has been bouncing around in the bilge for a some period of time it may be shot and need to be replaced.
 

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I installed one on a older Cajun bass boat that didn't originally have one. I just found a good clean area in the bilge. Got all the grease and oil off, and made a loop or a circle of paper board, and placed the transducer as level to what the water surface would be with the ring of card board around it. I next took autobody resin and pour it in. Simple as that. It's OK if it gets underneath, as long as the transducer becomes 'part of the boat'.
 

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I just got done installing my new LMS 320. I you have any questions email me at [email protected] This the third puck i have installed. It is very straight forward.
1. I first used my dremel and removed the foam and excess fiberglass, making sure that the area was flat.
2. Prepared the bottom of the puck (transducer) with sand paper, making sure that the surface was rough.
3. Next I purchased an epoxy for plastic, the reason for this is, if you have to move the puck, it will come free alot easier.
4. I then applied the epoxy to both the puck and the hole you ground out for it. Place the puck in the epoxy and move it side to side, making sure to keep pressure on the unit. This allows no air to enter the bond. Unlike a early post, little is better!! The less epoxy you have between the puck and the glass the better. No air is the key.
5. Once in place, I place a brick or a heavy object on the puck to hold it for approx. 24 hrs.
6. Take the boat out and test,

After testing and you find the results are unsatifactory, you can remove the puck and replace it since you used the plastic type epoxy!!!

Again, email me if you have any questions.
 

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Here's a quick and dirty repair I use (I don't remember who to credit for teaching me this, probably a tech from Ranger):

Fill doubled freezer baggies with water and suspend the transducer in it. I use a zip tie to seal the baggies tight. Then I attach it to something in my bilge such as a bilge pump hose so the transducer is parallel to the boat hull. It works pretty good in a pinch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My thanks to all those who responded. I have been out of power for the last four days so I haven't been able to respond. It seems the more electronic toys we have the more we miss them when the power goes out. Once again thanks for your input.

Ozonemaker
 

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I'm still without power too


I've just did this last year on my Triton, which is now sold and replaced with a Ranger
. The factory installed transducer, and never read the bottom very well at high speed anyway The new one I installed would read all the way to top speed! It was a bitch to get into that bilge compartment, so I wanted it done right. Here's a couple tips I picked up:

1) Form a ring out of plumber's putty. Use this ring as a dam (inside the bilge on the bottom) to pour the epoxy into. It's can be removed after the epoxy has cured.

2) DO NOT USE FAST CURE EPOXY!. Use the normal stuff. Air bubbles are the enemy here. The fast cure stuff traps more of the air bubbles, while normal stuff allows them to work out on their own (overnight). Lowrance actually gives you the fast cure stuff with their transducer kits. I'd take the extra time and do it the slow way.

3) Don't just push the transducer into the epoxy, "twist" it in. This will also help remove air bubbles.

4) Give the epoxy plenty of time to dry. I think the package says 24 hr at room temp. Temperature is a big factor. It will take long to dry in a cold garage. A fan in the bilge might help. You most likley won't be fishing on this weekend.

I hope this helps.
 
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