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I have never tried it but the wires seem small in my unit and might be hard to splice but They are all color coded.
 

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if you splice it go to harbor freight or autozone and pick up some heat shrink tubing. My neighbor told me any time you cut and splice wires that have to be used around water to make sure to use heat shrink tubing on them.
 

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I would think heat shrink tubing and some kind of sealant like 5200 should be ok. I think the 5200 would work better if you used the wire nuts. Twist wires fill nuts with sealant. Or you could always use the inline fuse casings to house the wires once they twisted & fill that with 5200. That should really keep things snug and water proof.
 

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Yeah I would say you should put a sealant on it or it will all be for naught and might end up shorting something out which could be really costly.
 

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Yes, it can be done. There's instructions somewhere. I think Lowrance has some somewhere. I kinked mine not too long ago, but I opted to just drop the cash on a new one. But if you do it, do not use the wire nuts and do not use shrink wrap alone. Use proper inline environmental splices that have their own heat shrink on them, and then use the black shrink wrap as a cosmetic overcoat, and then seal that up. Shrink wrap itself is not meant to be water proof; even the type with the gooey sealant inside it, it's not waterproof. The twist on nuts are not meant for this type of thing, do not use them. They're meant for light switches, not splices in sumberged environments (even if your repair is not below the waterline, you need to repair it to be worthy of submerged operation.)
 

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Twist nuts? LOL....

The best method to do this is:

1. If it is a sonar (tansducer) DO NOT take any length of wire out. Try to keep as close to the original length. Depth is handled by teh speed and time ratio with sonar. The length of the wire is important to the time aspect. The shorter the wire the shorter the time the signal runs and it wil effect the depth reading. You can cut out a max of about a foot and maintain accurate readings.

2. Dry the wires completely and splice the wires and SOLDER THEM.

3. If you cannot solder, use the butt connectors that have built in shrink tubing on them.

4. Use additional shrink tubing over the butt connector/solder connection.

5. Apply Liquid Electrical Tape (liquid neoprene) to the exterior of the shrink tubing.

6. Let it dry completely before use!

This is for almost any connection on a boat whether it is above or below the water line.

I have successfully spliced transducer wires many many times. In a pinch (like while on the water) you can use electrical tape to do the whole thing, but in time corrosion will set in. As soon as you get off the water splice them using the method above and you can get years of service out of it.
 

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All this talk of twist nuts sounds painful.
 

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hook, im glad you asked this. i also need my cable fixed. kinda anxious to hear how it works for you!!! its either a cheap fix or a new cable.

GL
 

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QUOTE(Mini @ Aug 4 2009, 09:12 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Twist nuts? LOL....

The best method to do this is:

1. If it is a sonar (tansducer) DO NOT take any length of wire out. Try to keep as close to the original length. Depth is handled by teh speed and time ratio with sonar. The length of the wire is important to the time aspect. The shorter the wire the shorter the time the signal runs and it wil effect the depth reading. You can cut out a max of about a foot and maintain accurate readings.

2. Dry the wires completely and splice the wires and SOLDER THEM.

3. If you cannot solder, use the butt connectors that have built in shrink tubing on them.

4. Use additional shrink tubing over the butt connector/solder connection.

5. Apply Liquid Electrical Tape (liquid neoprene) to the exterior of the shrink tubing.

6. Let it dry completely before use!

This is for almost any connection on a boat whether it is above or below the water line.

I have successfully spliced transducer wires many many times. In a pinch (like while on the water) you can use electrical tape to do the whole thing, but in time corrosion will set in. As soon as you get off the water splice them using the method above and you can get years of service out of it.

Mini,

Why do all the manuals for my Lowrance finders say that if the transducer cable is cut or kinked they can not be spliced? Is it simply a tactic for them to sell a new one? If it is as easy as you describe, it seems they could put those same instructions in the manuals, while also recommending a new one to avoid any potential issues. I was under the impression that some of the signal would be lost if you spliced it but it sounds like this is not the case.

Thanks for the info on how to do it right if it is needed.
 

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Found this on another forum. Supposedly from Lowrance. They suggest aluminum foil to cover a soldered splice before using heat shrink tubing.

Matt

We do not recommend cutting and slicing of transducer cables. The connector ends are injection molded onto the cables and the transducer body housings are potted with an epoxy material to make this accessory completely waterproof. Water infiltration in this cable can cause delaminating, internal corrosion, and cable damage, which can result in poor performance at the least - and sounder malfunction or damage at the worst. If a cable is cut or broken we do provide some accessory connectors which are preferable to splicing if the cable remains long enough to reach. However if the cable is too short or a connector kit does not exist then you should follow these instruction to splice the cable. This procedure is best performed by a reputable and skilled electronics repair facility or technician.

Cut the cable in a location that will place the splice in a protected area in the vessel. It should not be exposed to rain or spray, nor be allowed to lay in the Bilge or other area which will allow it to be submerged in water. If using a ?heat shrink? insulating material, for either the center conductor connection, shield connection, overall splice, or all of the above, place over the cut ends now.

Carefully strip approximately 1? of the outer insulation or jacket from the ends to be spliced. Unwrap the shield and twist it.

Strip approximately 3/8? of the inner insulation (center conductor) from each end to be spliced. Twist the center conductors of the two ends together, then solder the connection. Use special care to allow full flow of solder without damaging or melting the insulator around the center conductors. This can result in a shorted connection and damage to the sounder. Wrap the solder joint in good quality electrical tape or heat shrink as appropriate.

Twist the shield wires together and solder this connection. Wrap a small piece of Aluminum Foil over the entire splice. Make certain the foil makes a good contact with the shield wires to prevent, reduce, or eliminate electrical noise or interference.

Finally wrap the entire splice with electrical tape or use the Heat shrink material previously installed to completely seal and insulate the splice connection. The transducer is now ready to use.

If we may be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us
 

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QUOTE(DR.hook @ Aug 3 2009, 09:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>it got kinked some how now my speed and temp. Gage don't werk! can i splice it ????

If it's from an older Hummingbird (90's) I have a transducer cable & speed/temp cable that you can have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
QUOTE(Zib @ Aug 5 2009, 11:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>QUOTE(DR.hook @ Aug 3 2009, 09:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>it got kinked some how now my speed and temp. Gage don't werk! can i splice it ????

If it's from an older Hummingbird (90's) I have a transducer cable & speed/temp cable that you can have.




thanks for the offer zib but im back on overtime now so i think ill buy a new wifiey says i can... B)
 
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