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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took a quick burn in my Rinker 232 Captiva the other day, and noticed some water gathering in the bilge. Upon closer inspection, I found a 4 inch crack in the block on the port side. OUCH,
the worst part is that I winterized the boat myself. (flushed it with antifreeze, pulled all the drain plugs, all the right steps)
So now I'm faced with a possible $4000.00 bill to pull the engine and replace the block. Some of my co-workers have told me that I can put a structual epoxy in the crack and it'll work good as new. The leak is external only, no water in the oil. Does this JB Weld or similar product really work? I had planned on selling the boat this Spring, but don't want to rip someone off if its only a bubble gum fix. Anybody have knowledge to help me with my dilema?
 

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I had a 84 Nova that cracked the water jacket. They did a weld called "brazing" I think. It held great. A surveyor inspected it also at the sale and said the repair looks good and it should be no problem.

I'm not sure about if it would work in a crack in the actual block itself.

Worth the extra money to have someone who is insured do the winterizing and dewinterizing.
 

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JB Weld or a similiar product will work for a while. My family used to have an old ski boat and there was a crack in the manifold. So we put JB weld on it and it held but wound up blowing out after about three engine hours.

In reality, the only way to fix this right, is by getting a new block. Same thing happened to the guy we bought our boat from. Tried winterizing himself, cracked the block, and we got a boat w/ a fresh motor.

Sorry to hear about your luck.
 

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There's a product called "Marine Tex". It's a 2 part epoxy. It goes on like bondo...it's also sandable and paintable. You should be able to buy it at an auto parts store. Read the lable. I've never heard anything bad about it...but just like life, there's no guarantees. Good luck.
 

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Jabber is definately correct. New block if you want to do it right.

If you are looking for a semi perminent fix, JB Weld makes an epoxy specifically for engine block cracks. It will work, but you have to be sure to drain the block and prep correctly and READ THE DIRECTIONS!!!! It should last for as long as you own the boat, but it is still not as good as new.

Brazing is difficult on an engine block in my experience, but can be done.
 

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If the block was drained and dry, and you ground the area around the crack for good adhesion you could probably make it through the season no problem. Pull the motor in the fall ao you don't miss any boating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I'm leaning towards the JB Weld quick fix to enjoy the summer boating season, then pulling the engine over the winter and put her up for sale next Spring.
Next question, who would be my best bet for a project like this? It's a 5.7L EFI with Bravo 3. I have worked on engines, but do not have the chainfall/overhead hoist nor the technical knowledge to take on this big of a job. I called 2 marinas, and backlog is about a month right now! Any boat mechanics out there? If I had the block in front of me, I can do the rest...just getting it out is the trick.
 

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Not to kick a guy when he's down, but you need to also realize the steps you took when you put the boat away weren't adequate.

There's nothing wrong with winterizing yourself but you do have to be sure you get all the water out. Maybe when you "flushed" you sucked 5 gallons of anitfreeze through the intake hose and out the exhaust. If so, I'd like to know - I've always been wary of that and choose instead to completely drain all the water, replace the drainplugs and hoses and fill the engine up to the thrmostat housing with -50 redpop, let that sit awhile to dilute any hiding water, then drain everything again. Then I leave it to dry out.

I've recently been told I shouldn't store the engine dry like this because the engine rusts inside so I guess I should add to my routine by filling with something that absolutely won't freeze. But I've never had a problem doing this and I store at Schmidt's, right on the lake with nothing protecting the boat from the cold winds right off the lake. And the last two winters were super cold - I know I don't have to tell anyone that.

The other possibility for your routine to fail could be sand in the engine. Do you beach your boat often? That's a killer for engines. The sand will pack in and hold water when you try to flush it out in the Fall.

I am sorry to hear about your trouble with the block - that's a real shame just when the season is getting started and everyone is going to be busy and will charge up the wazoo. Will your insurance help pay for the loss? I agree with the majority above that you need to replace the block. I don't think there's a reliable longterm fix for a crack like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I didn't beach it last year more than once or twice... and I'm a stickler for using charts and staying out of the shallows. The sequence I used was to first attach the muffs and go through about 2 gallons of antifreeze (50/50 mix with water) Then after the exhaust is puking the pink stuff, I shut the engine down then pull the drain plugs. (5 on a 5.7L) I had no problems for years... but maybe a tiny pocket of trapped water combined with the extended sub-zero winter we just had caused the crack.
I found a place on Grosebeck that will exchange the block for $700.00. Turn-around time is quick if the engine is striped down to a short block. (no heads, no intake, no exhaust, etc)
Insurance might cover a cracked block?!?
 

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I would ask - I know I had my prop repaired three years in a row (once it's repaired it's not very strong at the point where it was fixed and it will bend again even in sand) and my insurance paid fir all three repairs after a deductible. Then when I finally bought a stainless prop, they credited me for the deductibles I had already paid and they paid the difference for the stainless one. I never thought they'd pay for any of that so I'd ask if you have any coverage for a frozen block.

Again, that's a damn shame - I hope you can get it taken care of soon.
 

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Talk to Sparky at Vicious Marine. On Rosso Hwy. (M-59) Just West of Jefferson. Across from Selfridge. In Chesterfield... He'll fix you up! Tell him TheWiz sent you...
 

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As far as winterizing goes, I don't think muffs are adequate because the engine may not be at operating temp and is bypassing the thermostat. Also keep in mind just because you pull a plug on the block and nothing comes out, it may not be empty. The holes frequently get plugged with rust and crud. Always have a small screwdriver handy so as soon as you pull the plug you can clean out the hole and the water flushes out the hole. Also do BOTH sides at the same time so water comes out both sides and you know for sure it is draining. I wouldn't use red pop you cheap skates
as it is for water systems not your fancy engines that gets you around all summer. Buy some non-toxic engine (blue) anti-freeze which has the proper rust inhibitors and freeze protection. I always got mine at Dynamic Speed and Marine on Jefferson at M-59. He may have a block for you also. Tell him hammer sent you. Back to winterizing.....there are two ways I used to do mine (before I had closed cooling Horizons) one is to pull the thermostat and pour it directly into the intake manifold. When you see blue coming out the holes, put the plugs back in. It costs you a .99 gasket. The other way is to after you drain the block and pull ALL the hoses that hold water including the lower water pump hose, pull the upper water pump hose and pour it in there, and watch it come out the block holes. My .02.
 
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