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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to winterize my engines (merc 350"s) for the 1st time. In the past I always had the marina do it.
I went to purchase some antifreeze at West Marine and noticed they had a -60 and a -100 antifreeze. The -100 was about twice the price of the -60. Is it necessary to spent twice as much to be safe or is that going overboard for this area?
How many Gallons do I need for each engine? I am going to winterize by pumping the antifreeze into the outdrive water pickups. I will be pulling the drain plugs on the engine 1st to drain the water.
Any other suggestions?

Thanks!!!
 

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i use the -100 allways , my reasoning is that there is water in the block still and the anti freeze is being diluted, when your running it though. in past ive bought just rv anti freeze hammer posted a while back to use a different anti freeze still safe for enviormennt but has lubricant in it so block and what ever else wont rust out.so iam going to look for that in west marine book. i run 5 gallons though one engine when i do mine better safe than sorry dont want anything cracking on me over winter. for water system i just use -50 make sure thermostat is open so itll circulate all through the engine. that works for me others may have better ideas.
 

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I HAVE SEALED SYSTEMS ON MINE RIGHT NOW, SO I DON'T DO THIS, JUST POOR SOME IN THE OUTDRIVE.

BUT IN THE PAST I HAVE ALSO POORED IT INTO THE INTAKE AREA, WATERPUMP ( ON INBOARDS )

I WOULD RUN SOME CHEAP RED POP THROUGH IT FIRST TO HELP GET OUT WATER IN THE POCKETS FROM THE CASTING IN YOUR BLOCK, MAY BE THERE,...MAY NOT,...THEN RUN THE ANTI FREEZE INTO THE BLOCK AS YOU STATED. CAN YOU DO IT AT THE INTAKE, ALSO TRY TO USE THE BIO DEGRADABLE.
WONT KILL GRASS, POISON ECO SYSTEM WHEN YOU START THE ENGINES

DON'T SEE THE REQUIREMENT FOR -100 IF YOU DO THIS.
-60 SHOULD SUFFICE FOR YOU.

GOOD LUCK DAILEY JIM
 

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DON'T use red pop in your motors. Get the blue ENGINE stuff (Dynamic Speed & marine 949-5990) It is enviromentally safe when you start them in the spring. I NEVER pumped it through the outdrives always took off the thermostat housing and poured it in there or later on pulled off one of the big hoses off the water pump and poured it through there. Haven't done it in five years as my Horizons have closed cooling. Once you drain the motors, hoses, exhaust manifolds, lake water pump, AND the oil cooler hiding under the motor, one gallon per motor is enough. After I drained the motors I used to turn the motors over a couple times (don't start) there is still a lot of water in the lake water pump and hoses that will drain out the block also. I'll give you a hand if you need it Jim. Bring beer.
 
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I use the -100 stuff and dilute it to -50. In the 272 I used the Camco winterizing kit to pump it through the drive. The one problem I had with it the first time I used it was that the spigot on it is really restrictive and would kind of starve the water pump. My engine was close to overheating before pulling in the entire jug of antifreeze and by the time I went to fog it, I had all kinds of steam coming out the exhaust. I bought some clear hose and some fittings so that it still works the same way, but the antifreeze flows at a much higher rate now.
 

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QUOTE(hammer @ Sep 26 2003, 09:22 PM)DON'T use red pop in your motors. Get the blue ENGINE stuff (Dynamic Speed & marine 949-5990) It is enviromentally safe when you start them in the spring. I NEVER pumped it through the outdrives always took off the thermostat housing and poured it in there or later on pulled off one of the big hoses off the water pump and poured it through there. Haven't done it in five years as my Horizons have closed cooling. Once you drain the motors, hoses, exhaust manifolds, lake water pump, AND the oil cooler hiding under the motor, one gallon per motor is enough. After I drained the motors I used to turn the motors over a couple times (don't start) there is still a lot of water in the lake water pump and hoses that will drain out the block also. I'll give you a hand if you need it Jim. Bring beer.

God, we did ours tonight....pain in the arse I tell ya.....Go blue! Cheaper to buy the blue than have a cracked engine in the Spring.
 

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What do chicks know? I think 3crabs did the work.
 

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QUOTE(hammer @ Sep 27 2003, 11:20 AM)What do chicks know? I think 3crabs did the work.

After that statement I would say we are even!


By the way, this chick is right there for the dirty deed
Somebody has to supervise
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone for your advise. It looks like I will go for the -100 antifreeze. I drained the water out of the engines sunday (thru the drain plugs & mufflers). I will run the antifreeze thru it this weekend. Thanks again.
 
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Jim, one important thing about running the antifreeze in through the drive is that the engines have to be up to operating temperature. If you drain the water out of the block and hook up the antifreeze later and let the water pump suck it in, the thermostat won't be open and you can still have water in the block. What I do is run the engine for a while on the hose to get it to operating temp, turn the AF valve on and the water off while it's still running, let it just about drain the AF tank, and spray fogging oil in the carb and shut it down. Then change the oil since it's hot and flows good and drain and refill the drive.
 

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Thanks Bill,
I also was told if you drain the block 1st then when you pump the a/f thru the outdrive the block will fill up with a/f. Since I drained the block all ready I think that is the way Iam going to do it. When I am done I will pull the plugs on the block to see if a/f comes out.
You are right, if you don't drain the block you must heat up the engine 1st. Thanks for keeping an eye out for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'am not quite sure how the engine fills up with a/f 1st while the thermostat is closed. Hopefully me trying to save a few bucks now won't cost me several bucks in the spring.
 

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I think the dirves and exhaust water jackets will fill with thermostat closed but not the block.

I used to use Hammer's method. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat and dump the antifreez in there.

Don't run it long with the water drained. Even if some antifreez makes it to the block with the thermostat closed it won't be enough to cool the heads.

I'm sure BoatUS or West will have a mercruiser manual that will tell you there recomended process.
 
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