[PyrateJim]

Dont ask me why, but this just dawned on me.

When we stored our boat last season (Nov. '08) we had about 200 gals. of gas, total, in the tanks (2/3rd's full). Being that we normally splash in early April, we have never used stabil, or any additive over the 6 winter months and we've never had an issue the following season with starting or the gas.

Now, with us not splashing in this year, I have about 200 gals. of untreated gas on the boat. Being that she is going to be on land for a total of about 18 months, besides a possible "hard start" in April '10 when we splash, do I need to worry about having 200 gals of "dead/bad" gas on board? Is it too late to add stabil and for it to do any good?

Thoughts, suggestions, ideas and prayers are welcome.

 

[Float On]

I have had cars stored for that long that have ran just fine without additives. I'd definitely add some StaBil though. Cant hurt at this point.

 

[canaller]

I would add Sta-Bil on the heavy side of recommended dose and if it were my boat I would also add Sea Foam at the recommended dose. It is a bit late but choices are limited. I have used both together with good results and at this point I don't know of any better suggestions short of draining tanks which is where you will be if it doesn't work. Once upon a time I had farm trucks that were used about 1 month a year and that is how I treated the tanks. You might consider changing all the fuel filters before you splash to catch any crud build up. Chances are you will be OK.

Best of luck.

 

[Garry]

Change the filters after the first few hours of running. Odds are, they will be fubar pretty quick. I would add plenty of Additive (be it Stabil, Starbrite, whatever) now, and roll the dice.

If it is straight fuel, you're probably fine. If it has any ethanol, it's going to suck water huge, so you may have to change the separators a few times.

A little story - We built the engines for the Corvette race team since the beginning. Last year they decided to go green and run E85. Long story short, we have a 55 gal drum in the fuel room that all the waste fuel goes in when you purge the dyno fuel lines. It probably has 3-4 gals of E85 in it, and the rest 100-110 octane race gas for the rest of it.

Sooo, I use the waste gas in my boat, and mowers, etc..... until now..... last week I went in and checked the drum for water, and when I pulled the stick out of the tank, the bottom 4-5 inches were covered in a RUSTY water/fuel mixture. This is in a tank that is stored indoors, for less than a year....... all from the little bit of ethanol in it...................

It doesn't take long to happen, and I would guess even quicker in a boat that is stored outdoors. That is why I would say change the filters after you run some of that crap thru it - don't waste a new filter....but I don't think you will have to dump it either. Might be good to top it off with some good gas when you splash as well, just to dilute the bad stuff.

 

[KMC]

I would definitely use Stabil (or something like it) even if you just store for ~6 months, and I agree with the others... putting something in now would be a good move.

If you have the capability to do it, I would try and draw out 5 or 10 gallons out of each tank, and try and draw it from the bottom. I rigged up a 6' peice of tubing connected to an electric pump to get some fuel directly out of my tanks before I used the gas from some extended storage.

My situation was that I has stored the boat for the winter, then took on a project out of town for 3 years. My boat didnt' get back in the water for FOUR years. When I put it back in, I had a LOT of concerns over the ~200 gallons that was inside. I contemplated pumping it out, but that was going to cost a lot of $$. I pumped some out from the bottom of each tank, evaluated it for smell, volatility (shake up a closed can) and then ran some of it in my car before I tried to run it in the boat. I also backed off the timing a couple degrees. Everything was fine and I was glad to get a full tank of new fuel in there.

Mine was stored INSIDE though... much less concern for moisture than if stored outside, and much more stable for temperature swings (which is what draws moisture into the tanks).

Do you know if it's ethanol?

 

[Suck My Wake]

Hopefully it is straight fuel and not any ethanol. Definitely get some stabil in there, even though you will not be able to get it worked through the whole fuel system. Stabil also has a Marine version now too.

I would question the use of sea foam as that contains ethanol doesn't it?

 

[PyrateJim]

Thanks everyone for the input. It is straight gas, no ethanol mix. I'll add the stabil or whatever the name within the next week. I can live with what is in the lines, as that is miniscule when compared to what is sitting in the tanks. Changing filters and seperators is also in the plans for the spring.

I have not heard of "seafoam" before. I'll have to look into that, specifically to see if it does contain ethanol.

Come on April 2010, I cant wait to splash.

 

[Waldawg]

Add the Sta-bil for safe measure. Next spring it may cost a few bucks but fill up the remaining 1/3 with 93 octane. That will help the gas that has been sitting. That is what my mechanic has told me to do after a long storage.

 

[270 Crown]

Use SeaFoam, it's good stuff. 100% petroleum based product....it does not contain ethanol. I used it in my boat, cars and snowmobiles.

 

[Away Point]

In my view, the larger the volume of fuel, the lessor the chances of problems. The tanks will be fine (and yes, I'd pour in some additives now too), but it's the places were small fuel volumes can evaporate way to varnish that I'd have some concern over.

But, unless you want to run it now, don't worry about, as there is little you can do about it now. Plus, there is a good chance there won't be a problem anyway.

 

[canaller]

I would question the use of sea foam as that contains ethanol doesn't it?
[/quote]

No it does not contain ethanol it is 100% petroleum. Primary use is to remove gum and varnish, remove moisture and stabilize fuel. Sea Foam claims 2 year fuel stabilization with use of their product. The alchohol products are Heet and some of the other products sold as gas line anti-freeze and water driers.

I've used Sea Foam for years, in a variety of applications and it is a great product. For more info: http://www.seafoamsales.com/

 

[gradytom]

I second the use of Seafoam.
I've been using it in my Rudes for 6 years.
They idle smoother, way less smoke, less carbon buildup on the exhaust ports and plugs.
Great product.
Meijer/Murrays etc in the automotive additive area.
gt

 

[PyrateJim]

Probably chaulk this up to "the stupid question" that was asked, but is there any benefit to adding anything via the carbs to drain backward to get some in the lines?

Told ya it was a stupid question.

 

[Away Point]

QUOTE(PyrateJim @ Aug 26 2009, 08:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Probably chaulk this up to "the stupid question" that was asked, but is there any benefit to adding anything via the carbs to drain backward to get some in the lines?

Told ya it was a stupid question.

Not quite sure how you'd do that with less work than simply firing them up. Inside the carb is probably the only place you may have issues next year. But again, I'd say you have a good chance everything will be fine anyway.

 

[KMC]

QUOTE(PyrateJim @ Aug 26 2009, 08:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Probably chaulk this up to "the stupid question" that was asked, but is there any benefit to adding anything via the carbs to drain backward to get some in the lines?

Told ya it was a stupid question.

Nothing is going to "drain backwards". If you wanted, you could put a few drops in each vent tube on the carb so that the fuel in the float boat didn't varnish. I wouldn't worry about the little bit in the lines.. it's the volume in the tank and what's left in the carbs that would cause you any issues.... anywhere AIR and MOISTURE can get to, or anywhere that the smaller molecules of gas can EVAPORATE.

 

[Powerboat1]

QUOTE(garry454 @ Aug 25 2009, 10:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Change the filters after the first few hours of running. Odds are, they will be fubar pretty quick. I would add plenty of Additive (be it Stabil, Starbrite, whatever) now, and roll the dice.

If it is straight fuel, you're probably fine. If it has any ethanol, it's going to suck water huge, so you may have to change the separators a few times.

A little story - We built the engines for the Corvette race team since the beginning. Last year they decided to go green and run E85. Long story short, we have a 55 gal drum in the fuel room that all the waste fuel goes in when you purge the dyno fuel lines. It probably has 3-4 gals of E85 in it, and the rest 100-110 octane race gas for the rest of it.

Sooo, I use the waste gas in my boat, and mowers, etc..... until now..... last week I went in and checked the drum for water, and when I pulled the stick out of the tank, the bottom 4-5 inches were covered in a RUSTY water/fuel mixture. This is in a tank that is stored indoors, for less than a year....... all from the little bit of ethanol in it...................

It doesn't take long to happen, and I would guess even quicker in a boat that is stored outdoors. That is why I would say change the filters after you run some of that crap thru it - don't waste a new filter....but I don't think you will have to dump it either. Might be good to top it off with some good gas when you splash as well, just to dilute the bad stuff.

Your observation about the fuel drum is very interesting. Thanks for posting. This is the point I was making on an ethanol thread here a few months ago.
The problem happens in new as well as older boats as neither operate well on rusty water.
I am of the belief to recommend to my northern clients to have the tanks almost empty for winter.

 

[KMC]

btw... SeaFoam is on sale now at Advance Auto... $7.99/16oz