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Currently I am using a mix of braid and mono but I am switching all of the trolling gear over to mono for next year. 30lb big game with 80+lb test mono leaders. Its inexpensive and I have not seen a break off yet. Its all in the drag settings. Plus when you are putting out 150' of line out between the set for the lure and the amount of line it takes to run the lure down the board when you strip line it is easier to replace mono since braid can get expensive fast when you are spooling up a lot of reels. 1 440yd spool is enough for 2 of my Convector 30D reels.
 

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30 lb big game 80 lb hard mono leaders. i dont use any braids or flourocarbons. i suggest using quality bb swivels also. i only use sampos myself. gas and lures to expensive to lose a fish/lure from swivel failure.
 

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Highly recommend using 40lb Big Game mono for trolling. With 50 or 60 lb Seagaur floro leader material.

IMO - 30lb mono is not made for the rigors of trolling day in and day out. The xtra 10lbs on your main line mono, does not hurt a thing, and you can down size the leader material.
 

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40LB BIG GAME MONO WITH A 10-20' 50 OR 60LB FLOUROCARBON LEADER. TRY THE GAMMA BRAND, IT HOLDS UP BETTER WHEN THE WATER IS UNDER 60 DEGREE. SAMPO SNAPS, INLINE WEIGHT, WHEN RUNNING 10" NILS.
 

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QUOTE(Contender @ Oct 7 2009, 01:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Highly recommend using 40lb Big Game mono for trolling. With 50 or 60 lb Seagaur floro leader material.

IMO - 30lb mono is not made for the rigors of trolling day in and day out. The xtra 10lbs on your main line mono, does not hurt a thing, and you can down size the leader material.

i lost one of my favorite lures to 80 lb flouro last year my brother wanted to try it. ive respooled twice this season allready getting ready to do it again. i just like the xtra capacity i get from using the smaller diameter line. i think the line gets messed up from the pinch pads on the releases. i know some guys rotate rod positions to try to alleviate always running a rod at the same lead length i just respool. fish dont break line fisherman do, either lack of upkeep/nicks in line or twisted. or they dont let the drag do its job and lock the spool up with their thumb. most of the reels i see being used on lsc dont put over 22 lbs of drag locked up. i dont run my drags near locked i maybe have 10lbs of pressure at top ive never pulled on it with a scale to measure how much i run. i agree on mainline size doesnt affect the bite its in the leader you use. but i dont think 40 lb will help me land fish any faster seeing im not maxing out the 30 lbs ability. ive lost 2 nice fish at back of boat this year from the loke hooks bending, theyre not that strong when the fish only gets one of the barbs.
 

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Much depends upon whether you're flat-lining or running with planer boards. Flat-lining's a different ballgame.

I don't have planer boards, and some of my rods have 30lb Big Game or heavier mono as the main line, on others I've added 75 yards of braid tied with a double-uni to a 20 ft shock absorber of 30lb Big Game on the business end of the main line.

I use 50-60lb fluorocarbon leaders currently on all of them, length from 2 to 6 ft, depending upon floating weeds (long leaders only serve to keep strings of floating weeds off the lures, and are just a hassle otherwise on a small boat).

Fluorocarbon is supposed to be tougher and less visible than mono, but it also has much less stretch, so it's definitely not as good a shock absorber.

The advantage to braid when flat-lining is that it's way easier to tell if the lures are clear, especially with a long line out ... BUT ... when running smaller lures with smaller, weaker hooks a lot of fish can be lost to hooks being torn out. That's why I've added the mono shock absorber and set the drags lighter on the braid rods for trolling.

I also sometimes switch to the short leader and cast or jig on a spot, and the braid is way, way better for casting and jigging, where sensitivity is key.

Supposedly braid slips out of planer board releases too easily when dragging big musky lures, so it's not recommended for use with planers.

I've caught way more fish flat-lining controlling depth with the length of line out than with weight, and therefore only use weight when absolutely necessary to get the right depth. I run the longest line straight out back and the shorter lines to the sides, and make a lot of turns, "pump" the lures, etc. to trigger strikes. There are many advantages to flat-lining if you're fishing solo.

The main disadvantage to flat-lining is less of a "spread," so you don't cover the water quite as well when search fishing. I may get a heavy-duty Off-Shore inline planer to remedy this.

Like troller11 said, it's very important to check your line for nicks and such. I've been snagged in the Detroit River and found I could pull my 14ft boat against the current with 25lb Big Game. It will not break if it's not marred.
 

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QUOTE(gimmeteeth @ Oct 7 2009, 02:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Supposedly braid slips out of planer board releases too easily when dragging big musky lures, so it's not recommended for use with planers.

Braid does not work well with planar board releases.

1) ..most times, slips out of the releases, even with small musky lures
2) ..and if it does stay in the release, it tends not come to out of the release, instead, it just burns thru the release pad until it contacts the metal or plastic base material

Stick with mono of some type for planar fishing
 

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i run 40 on the reels and 80 on the leaders both mono with sampo swivels
 
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