My dad caught a line around a shaft and ended up spending over $10k in repairs. You can spend plenty of money on inboards! He also had an original prop (1969) crack due to fatigue a few years earlier.
I will agree that inboards are typically more reliable, though. I like I/O's for our lake, though. More efficient, more adjustable. And an outdrive sized properly for the application should last quite a while. A small block with a bravo behind it should live nearly forever, as long as you don't blow out the seals with fishing line and you keep up on the maintenance. Bellows, u-joints, and gimbal bearings are wear items, they will each need replacement every 2 - 10 years. If you're the guy who leaves his outdrive up all the way idling in and out of the moot, you will need u-joints every 2 years. If you actually know how to treat your equipment, you can probably get 10 years out of them. On the same token, if your inboard boat is sitting on it's props at muscamoot every weekend, you might need prop and shaft work every year.
I prefer inboards to v-drives as well. If you're going to take the efficiency hit with inboards you might as well put them forward to minimize bow rise when coming on plane and simplify the mechanicals. Problem with that is it takes more space. you can't really fit a mid-cabin in an express cruiser unless you go v drives or i/o's, but a straight inboard boat comes up on plane a lot easier with less bow rise and will typically run better just off-plane if you need to run through some heavy seas.
Another advantage to I/O's - they have a skeg. That skeg has saved my prop a couple of times. And when you do hit something (it ain't if, but when) the outdrive can often be replaced in it's entirety for what it will cost to replace an inboard prop, fix a strut, and straighten a shaft.