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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All of a sudden the driver side power window doesn't work. The passenger side window is fine from both door switches. No indication that anything is happening (no sign of elec. load when pressing the switch up or down).

Sure sounds like the problem is likely inside the driver's door, right? I can't think of a better place to start testing than by pulling the door panel, can you?

It's always something, isn't?!

Thanks.
 

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Uhm, maybe, maybe not?
If there is no electrical load when you hit the switch, it could be a loose/broken wire. Check the wire harness in the door hinge area first and look for anything pinched/cut/broken there before you pull the door panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE(Big Dog @ Jun 14 2009, 11:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Uhm, maybe, maybe not?
If there is no electrical load when you hit the switch, it could be a loose/broken wire. Check the wire harness in the door hinge area first and look for anything pinched/cut/broken there before you pull the door panel.
That's true, but I think (haven't even looked yet) it's all in a bellows-like boot, so I think it still might be better to start in the door. See if there is power to/from the switch, etc.

Time will tell...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just realized it is one of the worst kind of problems -- intermittent.


Works perfectly right now.

Maybe I'll go browse around at GM.gov for some answers.
 

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you have power to the windows. start with the switch. if its not the switch, its the window motor... you can jump the switch to check it with a pair of wires. usually the drivers door 4 window switches will work if the the switch on a single door goes bad. if neather switch works but the other windows work its prob the window motor.wires in the door jamb areas can go bad on super hi mil cars or cars that have had body repairs in that area. BTW GMs eat switches.
 

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I have replaced my share of power window motors and switches.

Take off the door panel put power to the motor if it works it's the switch. If it doesn't it's the motor.

You can check the wire harness but putting power to the motor is an easy troubleshooting step.

Matt
 

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Try this also. Try holding the switch down as you open and close the door. Its possible a wire could have broke in the boot that runs from the body of the truck to the door. Rare but not impossible.
 

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I have a 2002 GMC Sierra P/U... Last Thursday I had the passenger side window motor replaced...
The regulator was all bound up. You can't change just the regulator so $330 or so dollars later the window works fine.... The window was working fine, it would go up & down no problem.. Then it would go down real smooth but take forever to go up untill it just quit going up altogether... I'm glad it's fixed now.. Now that we are enjoying Global warming again....lol
 

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Last year I had a bizarre problem...

My Envoy's rear passenger window switch wouldnt work, nor could I roll it up or down via my master switch on my door. Strangely though, it would occasionally roll itself down in 2" increments and roll itself back up. I swear to god I almost brought myself to the looney bin thinking I was crazy or my truck was possessed!

Well turns out, after some troubleshooting turns out the switch on the rear door shorted out- probably from leaving the window cracked open and having it rained on in the past (vent visors were installed after this incident). Went to Middletons, and $15 later I was in biz.

Moral of story: start with basics. Dont go replacing the window motor/regulator just yet...
 

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QUOTE(bouttime1 @ Jun 15 2009, 09:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I have a 2002 GMC Sierra P/U... Last Thursday I had the passenger side window motor replaced...
The regulator was all bound up. You can't change just the regulator so $330 or so dollars later the window works fine.... The window was working fine, it would go up & down no problem.. Then it would go down real smooth but take forever to go up untill it just quit going up altogether... I'm glad it's fixed now.. Now that we are enjoying Global warming again....lol

once your drivers side wondow goes out go on ebay and order a new regulator and motor setup from there for $50 bucks and find someone else to put it on. or PM me I could use $330 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for tips (and laughs
)

While it is a 98, it's a Texas truck, 80k miles, and has never seen a MI winter -- it is in good shape.

I guess at this point I'll hope it was just a freak. Or, I could drive far from home on a rainy day and roll down the window. Then I bet it wouldn't roll back up!


If it comes to it, is there a better place than the dealer to order the switch assembly?
 

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QUOTE(Away Point @ Jun 15 2009, 07:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Just realized it is one of the worst kind of problems -- intermittent.


My bet is electric motor. They get a bad spot on the armature.
When you slam the door or hit a bump it moves just enough to make connection and work again.


tg.
 

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QUOTE(Away Point @ Jun 15 2009, 10:25 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...
If it comes to it, is there a better place than the dealer to order the switch assembly?

if your ok with getting a used part try Schram Auto outta ponticrac. They strip out a lotta GM wrecks and stuff and shelf it.
 

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Schram auto parts in Waterford has used GM stuff. They're kinda expensive but cheaper than NOS or from the dealer. If they have one I could pick it up for you after work on Wednesday and you'd only have to come to Madison Heights to get it, unless you need it right this very instant.

http://www.schramauto.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
QUOTE(troyguy @ Jun 15 2009, 10:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>QUOTE(Away Point @ Jun 15 2009, 07:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Just realized it is one of the worst kind of problems -- intermittent.


My bet is electric motor. They get a bad spot on the armature.
When you slam the door or hit a bump it moves just enough to make connection and work again.


tg.

That could be, but I did sort of "test" that theory on our wonderful MI roads. I waited for the next big bump (0.03 seconds), and tried it.
It might be a thermo thing though. It was sitting in the hot sun yesterday, and in the cool garage this morning.

Thanks for the offer nitwit! I'll just play it by ear for now. MAYBE it will keep working.

Used parts have 2 benefits over new ones. Cheaper, and tested. "New" just mean untested!
 

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The last switch I needed I traded a '95 Mercury Villager with 350,000 mile for it.

I get the better end of that deal.

The last one I bought was from a place on Joy Rd. In Harrison Twp. Paid 30 bucks for the whole assembly. I think the name of the place is Big Mikes.

Matt
 
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