[Cadmonkey]

i need about 8 sheets of 3/4" marine plywood. any one know anyone? got prices? who's cheap online?

Shorgasm had a friend and was a sponsor here? couldnt find the listing.

 

[Knot right]

Since they opened a Menards in Flint I now get their flyer. They reqularly advertise marine plywood. Don't remember the price and you might not be near one.......helpfull huh?

 

[Cadmonkey]

QUOTE(Knot right @ Jun 19 2009, 04:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Since they opened a Menards in Flint I now get their flyer. They reqularly advertise marine plywood. Don't remember the price and you might not be near one.......helpfull huh?

hmm I knowtheres one in lansing tho. but yeah where in flint its closer I'm in milford.

 

[BigZ]

8 sheets sounds like a serious project.

I think this is the link to the former sponsor:
www.nauticallumber.com

If you go with Menards make sure it's real marine stuff, not just exterior ply.

 

[lildebr]

consumers lumber on groesbeck south of hall. going out of business sale, everything 10-30% off. everything....

 

[Blue Goose]

Pontiac Plywood Co. on Baldwin south of Walton carries marine plywood.

 

[Knot right]

The Menards near Flint is at I 75 and Vienna road....if you want to be picky it is a Clio mailing address

 

[Cadmonkey]

ttt just cause i axed the ? on a friday afternoon.

 

[Cadmonkey]

QUOTE(BigZ @ Jun 19 2009, 07:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>8 sheets sounds like a serious project.

I think this is the link to the former sponsor:
www.nauticallumber.com

If you go with Menards make sure it's real marine stuff, not just exterior ply.

thanks.

yep, complete stringer tear out.

 

[Advantage_Rob]

I just got a 4x8 sheet of marine ply at the New baltimore Lumberjack @ 23 & Jefferson for $75. Call first, make sure they have 8 sheets in stock if thats a good price for ya. Someone i was talking to over the weekend said they paid $200 for a 4x8 sheet the week before somewhere else.

 

[Cadmonkey]

thanks

still bit far from milford but not as far as sandusky, I found them at $73 a sheet down there.

that $200 bucks mighta been the good stuff...differant grades of marine plywood...

douglas fir
okume
meranti
teak
some others

those are all good for making sailboats (exposed to elements) and looking pretty but all I need is good ol douglas fir 7-ply for strength, its all getting covered in glass.

 

[Tight_line Tug_a_War]

Since your glassing them in, why not save your money and use A/B exterior ply, bed them with PL and a coat or two of epoxy and spend the savings on lures, beer, table dances lol what-ever...

Enjoy, I'm into replacing mine as well as the transom..done right will be better than new when finished.

 

[Cadmonkey]

QUOTE(Tight_line Tug_a_War @ Jun 22 2009, 03:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Since your glassing them in, why not save your money and use A/B exterior ply, bed them with PL and a coat or two of epoxy and spend the savings on lures, beer, table dances lol what-ever...

Enjoy, I'm into replacing mine as well as the transom..done right will be better than new when finished.

because its not as strong in shear strength or bending and "marine grade" or "structural 1" and if water does pentrate that stuff will rot faster depending on what it made of, and who knows what most of it is made of half the time.

trust me, I was gonna but once I got this much time into 'er I decided not to. my boat has an active stringer system, meaning most of the strength is from the core material. the glass just holds it up and dry, mostly.

check out put the APA guidlines on it.

well all that... and the wife would want a table dance for every one I get and then where's my savings?

 

[Tight_line Tug_a_War]

Good points...true on who knows what they were thinking when they build these, I've seen them with stringers that don't attach to the transom, butt joints to make length without splines or any fastening, Glassing only half way up the stringers etc etc... I'm half a step from the poor side of town, and I'm thinking if I epoxy & glass each stringer first then bed and glass over, tab in etc that should more than make up for shear strength, but I'm lost on the 'bending' you mentioned{ referencing 'active stringer system' maybe?}..can you supply a guy some enlightenment...Thanks this is a first for me doing it alone and one can never have to many friends offering idea's.

Wives...they just won't let us play the game as we see fit...go figure..lol

 

[gunshow]

Regular exterior plywood has a ton of voids usually. The stuff I looked at Home Depot was horrible. In theory you could drill and fill these voids with epoxy, but that would be way more trouble than it's worth.

 

[Cadmonkey]

FYI I went to michigan lumber up in Flint. 73 bucks a sheet...if you dont mind rolling thru the hood.

 

[Cadmonkey]

QUOTE(Tight_line Tug_a_War @ Jun 22 2009, 09:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Good points...true on who knows what they were thinking when they build these, I've seen them with stringers that don't attach to the transom, butt joints to make length without splines or any fastening, Glassing only half way up the stringers etc etc... I'm half a step from the poor side of town, and I'm thinking if I epoxy & glass each stringer first then bed and glass over, tab in etc that should more than make up for shear strength, but I'm lost on the 'bending' you mentioned{ referencing 'active stringer system' maybe?}..can you supply a guy some enlightenment...Thanks this is a first for me doing it alone and one can never have to many friends offering idea's.

Wives...they just won't let us play the game as we see fit...go figure..lol

yep what gunner siad the standard plywood isnt as strong. if you make a beam out of it (glue together and cut to shape like the original lumber) it wont be as strong as the marine ply. the marine ply has extra layer for the same thicknesses, thats where most of the strength probably comes from, thats and the wood species they are made out of. usaully douglas fir or western larch.

check out www.speedwake.com i have a thread on there.

and lotsa good info on www.boatdesign.net in the fourms but beware most people are like me, novices jsut trying to repair the POS that they bought and rotted out from under them. There are a couple actual nautical engineer types boatdesingnet tho.

I also may be making my boat too stiff this way, some people say go with the douglas fir lumber planks for strength and flexiblity. but i'm also throwing a little carbon fiber on top of my stringers.

some boats dont have there stingers glued down hard so that the hull bottom doesnt get stress cracks. my main stringer where bondo'ed down hard but all my lateral short peices were not. i'm gluing everything down tight and adding extra bulkheads.

I figure anything i do will be an improvment over how baja slapped it together tho.

biggest thing is gonna be keeping the wet stuff on the outside this time. canvas cockpit covers suck always, they will eventually leak.

 

[Tight_line Tug_a_War]

I agree, standard ply won't cut it, but the A/BX{x = exterior} I'm using from home cheapo has 7 plys{3/4"} which is over twice what the standard has. Granted now, I'm rebuilding an older{'79 modified hull runabout} which originally used 3/4" S-4 lumber, & pine at that. I'm not saying one way is better than another, but if that original set-up lasted almost 30 years, then what I'm doing should outlast me{lol}. I've been using the restoration forum over at IBoats and there's plenty of discussions on whats considered overkill or not strong enough, too much info if you ask me, makes it hard to distinquish a good plan of attack.

I like the carbon fiber addition for strength, but wouldn't it be more suited for the sides than the top of the stringers? I'm thinking once the deck is down upon them{stringers} and glassed to the hull there shouldn't be any individual vertical stress to warrant the carbon's use that way. I too am attaching my stringers firmly, I'm using PL Premium and filleting with epoxy/milled fibers&1/4" strands...I'm a bob{big ol boy} and they're taking all the abuse my big 'ol behind has been putting them through crawling all over them. Ditto to you on the bulkheads, I've added two extra to go with the three originals. I'm not putting back the ski-locker as to me thats just another possible h2o entry point below deck, after all this work last thing I want is a "I wonder" item on board.

Anyways...I'm no engineer, far from it, but I know it's going to be quite the upgrade from the manufactuer's job. Like I mentioned, I have to watch the pennies and if that wasn't the case I'd of probably never opened my mouth here, just thought I'd share my .02, You hit the nail on the head with the "keep the wet stuff out" thats the key to taking care of
any boat/ship...best of luck to you and your build! And sorry for rambling on, it's late Friday/early Sat and I'm sober sad sad sad...lol

mine before

& after

 

[tboik]

all you have to do is use plywood just make sure you resin both side of the sheet then when you set it then glass it and it will be good and strong done to boats that way and no trouble

 

[Grapes]

QUOTE(Blue Goose @ Jun 19 2009, 10:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Pontiac Plywood Co. on Baldwin south of Walton carries marine plywood.

This is where I buy all of my Plywood at, for work or side jobs.